![]() ![]() They soften the light and even it out, providing a beautiful light to illuminate your subject. Softboxes (square), Octas (octagonal) and Rotaluxes (rectangular) are probably the most useful accessories you can invest in. You’ll always get a standard reflector with your lights by the way but let’s have a look at the most common. Most lighting kits come with some accessories, but there are a huge variety available. These are beautiful pieces of kit, but are again very costly! As a cheap starting point, they’re a great idea, but you’re likely to outgrow them quite quickly.Īt the other end of the budget, there are fluorescent lighting kits, from manufacturers such as Kino Flo, which provide daylight-balanced lighting. In addition, care needs to be taken to ensure that you set your DSLR on an appropriate setting for tungsten light. ![]() The downside of tungsten lighting is that you have little control over the power of the lights. A cheap budget option for those starting out in photography is tungsten lighting, with kits starting from around $200. There’s a huge discrepancy pricewise when it comes to different types of continuous lighting. Their range offers a solution for all budgets – from budget D-Lites all the way through to their new ELC lights, which allow users to sync lights at extremely high speeds.Ĭontinuous lighting is light that’s on all the time, so it doesn’t flash like strobe lighting. ![]() Personally, I’m a huge fan of Elinchrom lights and have been using them for many years. There are many good manufacturers on the market – Bowens, Broncolor, Elinchrom, Profoto and Westcott, to name but a few. But these are extremely expensive for those starting out, and are best suited to pros that need a very high amount of power. Power packs allow for use of multiple lights, and offer a far higher joules capacity. #Photo effect studio pro review portablePortable kits are usually lightweight heads with a portable battery, which allows them to be used on location. Strobe lights are also available in the form of portable kits, or with power packs. Kits come with stands, reflectors and accessories (more on accessories in a minute). Flash head power is measured in joules, and lights with a rating of around 400/500 joules will provide more than enough power to cover most rooms (unless you’re working in a warehouse!). I recommend flash lighting for beginners over continuous lighting, as it’s easier to control the colour casts (and I prefer the finished product). These run off a power cable so you’ll need electricity! Most manufacturers sell their studio flash heads as part of a kit, which is far more cost effective. The most popular, and budget friendly, are monobloc lights. Within the remit of strobe lighting, there are several variants. This type of lighting is more commonly known as flash lighting, as the light will ‘ flash’ each time the camera is fired, and then recycle its power. Strobe lighting tends to be the most popular, so let’s look at that first. Lights can be grouped into two main groups – strobe lighting and continuous lighting. In this article, we’ll look at what does what, and where you should invest your money. There are portable options available too!īut to make sure you buy the right kit for your requirements, you need to know about the different options. It allows us to create natural lighting effects in a variety of situations, and is far more controllable than a flashgun.Īnd, with so many options available nowadays, it doesn’t have to be confined to a studio. Studio lighting is an essential addition to most photographers’ arsenal. ![]()
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